Monday, 10 May 2004

Day 5 Monday

A pretty good night's sleep but with an extra blanket. I should have guessed that Barclaycard would not be accepted here. Once again, we had difficulty finding our way out of Vivo d'Orcia. Our host from last night had said there was a bus to Abbiado S. Salvatori at 9 o'clock but there was not. We retraced our steps of the previous day to locate a woodland track shown on the map but it clearly did not exist. We went back into Vivo d'Orcia to find the road out to Abbiado. This was more difficult than expected but we eventually got on the right road and then walked 7km to Abbiado. On the way, Nigel started to develop blisters and two blackened toenails which were obviously causing great pain. There was the first hint that Rome might not be reached. We spent some time in the tourist information centre in Abbiado, warming up and being helped by an absolute sweetie called Valeria who spoke good English. She let us leave our packs there while we went off to find some lunch - a microwaved tagliatelli for me in a very basic café but welcome for all that.
When we got back, Valeria had researched details of campsites beside Lago di Bolsena. We caught the 3.30pm bus to Acquapendente.
After a brief stop there, we decided to walk on and find somewhere to camp along the way. We called in at a tourist information centre and collected a map of the Francigena route to Bolsena. A very helpful young lady who spoke a little English was keen to assist. We then left the town, following Francigena signs which soon petered out. We headed towards the main road and after a while were offered a lift by our TIC girl and she took us all the way to Lago di Bolsena where she dropped us at a campsite on the western side. We had a 40 minute wait for the proprietor to return but it was very pleasant by the lake side.
We were the only campers on the La Grata site and spent a very peaceful night.

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